The first thing you’ll want to look for is markings on the muzzle device itself for a pin-and-weld. Next, you need to determine how the device was secured, so we’d suggest you go in this order based on what we’ve experienced: Pin-and-Weld This is why we recommend torqueing against the barrel itself. Just note that if you are not secured in a barrel block or to a reaction rod, you are going to be exerting force on your barrel index pin which is not infallible. It all depends on how secure the barrel is on the device. Though you can (and we have) get away with simply clamping your receiver in a vice. We recommend using a barrel clamp or reaction rod to prevent any bending, shearing, or breaking. It all depends on how it was put on to the host firearm to begin with though, so we’ll touch on each option below.įirst and foremost, it is very important that you secure the barrel before trying to alter or adjust anything. Well, we’re here to let you know it’s a lot simpler than you may think. Others may be thinking it’s got to be complicated because there’s a full blog post dedicated to it. Some people may be thinking that you just unscrew it and wham-bam it’s done. We’re not trying to over-complicate a simple issue here. Some silencers accept your original muzzle device that information is usually on the manufacturer’s website if you’re questioning whether or not the one you have, or the one you’re interested in, does. Now, you may have caught the caveat above when we say potentially. But when it comes to getting a new silencer for your firearm, there’s potentially one more step standing in the way of fulfilling all your suppressed shooting needs, and that’s how to remove your original muzzle device, and how to install a new one. So, one more question.Is it fully legal to thread the barrel then put the brake on and weld it? That's ok? Or do I need to pin it and do something else to hold it on? I will only do legal stuff.How to Remove an A2 Muzzle Device & How to Install a New Muzzle Device With a bonus tip on how to time them!Īs most of you know already, we like to indulge in all things NFA. I'm sure it will take me a while to find somebody to put it on for me. So, as long as I can find brakes at a gun show, I'll go there to be sure I'm getting the right size. But what I would like is faster target aquisition. I'm not going to go rapid fire any time soon. If I could get the grouping a little tighter than 8 ft. But it was a lesson that had to be learned. The first shot hit but all the others seemed to get farther and farther away. ![]() The target was a computer case about 75 yards out. Haven't done that yet and always wanted to. I pulled the trigger as fast as I could, just for kicks. Downside fo that is the shipping time and cost involved. If all that fails, there are AK smiths to which you can ship your rifle to have a brake permanently attached (thread, screw on, then weld). Failing that, go to a machine shop (don't bring the rifle in with you right away - just a hint). Best bet to find a smith would probably be to find a gun/sportsman's club and inquire there. I don't think you will have too much luck looking in the phone book, but then again, I'm in Mass. Yes, most smiths can thread your muzzle for you. Then I got a FAL, but that's a different story. ![]() My AK has negligible recoil, but the muzzle rise was irritating. Muzzle rise, which is what Sacco is describing. ![]() The short version - recoil is force to the rear of the rifle along the axis of the bore. AK 74 style brakes for 7.62 are readily available from commercial channels, so I've never had to bugger with one. ![]() Question on converting a real 74 brake to 7.62 - I don't know. Others have shimmed their brakes to obtain a better fit.įrom a legal standpoint, it's fine to thread your barrel, just make sure you weld the damn brake on after. I think that's the correct address.this is from memory, so please bear with me. I got my pin on brake at a gunshow, from 's table.
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